Inside the back of the SDP w/ pics

Thanks for the cool pics and info..

I cannot get that metal plate out. Can you help please??
Thanks
Problem solved...done deal.

I sure can't get the plastic locking cap off to remove the metal plate. It will not budge!!! HELP!!

Use a pair of pliers to pry it out or a thin flat screw driver. Otherwise . . .

Take a small drill bit. Drill into the top of the plastic cap and pry it out.

Solscud007 wrote:Use a pair of pliers to pry it out or a thin flat screw driver. Otherwise . . .

Take a small drill bit. Drill into the top of the plastic cap and pry it out.

Thanks very much. I got it popped out withm inimal damage...LOL!

Removed the Fugly end cap last night. Took all of about 20 minutes to complete the job. It now looks like it never had the cap on it at all. Waiting for my Tax Stamp to come back so I can buy the stock. Should have my Form1 in my hands around mid January.

MadDog

Nice. Keep us updated.

http://www.tokyo-model.com.hk/shop/taf-m4-stock-adaptor-for-kwa-kriss-vector-gbb-p-10486.html
http://www.tokyo-model.com.hk/shop/gp-6-position-stock-pipe-for-m4-aeg-p-1675.html

http://www.sigsauer.com/SigStore/sb15-pistol-stabilizing-brace-552.aspx

lol..  OK im nuts

You putting that on your pistol SDP?

Is there a reason why you couldn't make a new end piece that fits AR pistol buffer tubes and put a sig brace on it?

PLATOONS8 wrote:Is there a reason why you couldn't make a new end piece that fits AR pistol buffer tubes and put a sig brace on it?

Funny you say that. That is what I did.

http://www.krisstalk.com/t884-finally-my-ar-stock-adapter-is-done

Great information:  A couple of thoughts:
-If your shoulder bolt pin on the hinge pin has been loctited/drilled so you can't unscrew it, here is what I did.
 *select SHARP drill bit slightly SMALLER than the diameter of the hinge pin.  Using light pressure, drill the head of the hinge pin (shoulder bolt) from the top, while keeping pressure on the pin from the bottom with your hand to keep the pin from from rotating while drilling .  
*When you drill approx 1/8" or so deep, you will contact the area when the pin head and base are, and the pin/bolt head will pop off.  
*push the pin out.
-Remove the butt plate piece by tapping sideways from the side with the "V" cover on it.  (ie, L to Right when looking from the back).  It took me a bit to figure how the rear butt cap came off.  (you do Not have to remove the small allen bolt in the back end of the butt piece.
-pull up the armorer's manual.  It is very helpful.  Read several times before starting.   http://www.kriss-usa.com/pdf/armorer_guide/KRISS_Armorer's_Course_2012.pdf
-use fresh, high quality allen wrenches.  Several of my screws were Really loctited in solidly.  Would not be that hard to strip the head.
-the shiny metal threaded piece that you see when you look in the back comes out through the Top, through a removal section (cap) in the dovetailed rail of the upper receiver.  I easily popped this cap off with a small flat screwdriver, prying up on the underside of the dovetail rail. After you remove the cap (section of the dovetail rail), remove the shiny threaded square (gets in the way of the latch of the new stock).  Then just snap the cap (rail section) back in.

Good points. There is a video too.

http://www.krisstalk.com/t1064-sdp-to-sbr-modifications