KRISS Vector Lights

TXShooter wrote:Ezveedub, that is pretty sweet. was it hard to get the pressure switch through the slot in the upper? it looks thick.

The pressure switch looks like it's too fat, but it compresses and slides right through the slot opening in the frame. Just follow the Kriss instructions for a Surefire install, because its exactly the same with the Cadet.

got the light today..pressure switch and mount not in box.

light quality isnt to shabby, real test is if its durable then id say its def a cheaper alternative to surefire.

I truly apologize for the inconvenience. We will have it sent out first thing tomorrow and we will include 4 free CR123A batteries for the hassle. Once again I apologize for the inconvenience. Thanks and we appreciate your business.

i absolutely love companies that care about their customers. support this company if possible. It's not even an inconvenience, i cant even bring my kriss home yet.

looks good

I ordered mine today.

The Cadet has 4 light settings and strobe

remote switch came yesterday, i can turn the bezel and it goes from momentary on (hold it) to strobe, does yours have a click on, leave on type setting? im only seeing two on mine, solid or stobe. all 3 pressure buttons on remote switch seems to do the same thing, that how yours is?

also what adhesive did you use for velco? just the sticky back that comes with it or something else that won't damage kriss?

nih wrote:The Cadet has 4 light settings and strobe

remote switch came yesterday, i can turn the bezel and it goes from momentary on (hold it) to strobe, does yours have a click on, leave on type setting? im only seeing two on mine, solid or stobe. all 3 pressure buttons on remote switch seems to do the same thing, that how yours is?

also what adhesive did you use for velco? just the sticky back that comes with it or something else that won't damage kriss?

The pressure switch is a momentary only switch, it won't keep the light on constant. Even with the Surefire, it would be the same thing unless you used the SR05 switch, which you would have to cut your frame to allow the cable end to fit through. As for Velcro, I got some from Home Depot. Make sure it's industrial strength version. It's about $2.50 or so for the small package of Velcro. Just clean the area where it's mounted and the switch properly an allow it to set for 24 hours for full adhesion.

As for the light settings, you have strobe and light on, but you can change the amount of lighting by holding the switch on and quickly rotating the head to the right and then back. It should have 4 settings of light brightness. Take the light and rotate the head back and forth whiles its on and you'll see the light change from really dim to super bright with every rotation of head back and forth. I leave mine at the second highest setting. Wherever you last leave the light brightness at is where it will stay at unless you change it.

great explanation, thanks EZ

We appreciate your purchase. It was originally designed for KRISS and will be available through KRISS replacing there current option within the next month or two. We appreciate your support. We are not advertising this but feel free to share that it works perfect with your colleagues. Thank you for your business!

so if you had any doubts about EZ find as being a good light..looks like it will be official Kriss product at some pt.

Interesting.

I got one. It's on the mail. Also the adapter from Kriss. Had to order it trough my dealer because I couldn't order it directly from them.

Antrax wrote:I got one. It's on the mail. Also the adapter from Kriss. Had to order it trough my dealer because I couldn't order it directly from them.

I ordered all my parts from Kriss directly. All the local dealers have zero accessories for the Vector. Only the firearm and magazines.

my light came in today and it seems pretty solid. the beam adjustments are a little sensative. i am waiting on Kriss addapter so I am using the mount that cam with the light.

I ordered the powertac... I guess I will give up on the idea of putting a grenade launcher in there jk

Can someone post a pic of how bad the shadows are from the barrel? I'm definitely going to run a light in the light compartment but I'm also considering a light on my foregrip too to be sure I have a fully lit view. Also has anyone tried fitting the switch from this light into their foregrips iris this one a little big?

I don't have a pic, but I put my Veridian laser/light combo on the fore grip rail and it casts a very bad shadow with the CRB. I wouldn't recommend that location unless you had a SB.

Just got my powertac cadet in the mail. It's awesome! I have 2 g2 surefire lights and although they are a great product, this light is well worth the money with the different light settings. The strobe is very disorienting to whoever you shine it on(seizure warning!) without disorienting yourself, and with a 100 hour battery life on its lowest setting how can you go wrong?! It was my fault however when I found the switch is only a momentary switch(despite being warned here and in bold letters on batteryjunction.com). Will install tomorrow with a big smile. Anyone happen to know if the on/off surefire will work with this light? I'd really prefer that option although according to Kriss, any altering of the body of the gun voids the warranty(which I don't believe is a legal reason to deny warranty coverage). ALSO my light adapter from Kriss only has ONE tiny screw in it where there are two holes, anyone know if I got screwed on that part with a missing screw?

If I remember right you need one screw to fix the light to the adapter then you reuse the screw on the dust cover on the gun.

Guys, I went ahead and bought the Surefire kit. I really like the light, I already have one next to my bed and use it to find stuff after the wife's gone to sleep all the time. I followed the directions installing the light and switch perfectly but I must be missing something. First, the rear of the switch (as it attaches to the actual cord) is too thick for the slot you're supposed to thread it through, and (b) the switch itself doesn't bend to allow you to actually get it past the corner of the switch. In other words, you can press all you want on the switch from inside the upper receiver to force it through the slot, but two things will happen. First, the gun sheers rubber off the Surefire tape switch, and second, you can only get the corner of the switch through anyway. The space inside the upper receiver isn't wide enough to allow the switch to swing as horizontal as it needs to go to navigate the switch through the hole. Or the switch needs to be flexible (which it is not). I've basically ruined the switch (well, technically the gun did that) and my fingers are bleeding from the process. I've made a YouTube video of the incident but I'm not making the video public just yet because I want Kriss and this forum to view it first and make some recommendations. Here's the URL and you can see it at least:

http://1.seth.org/RJaPVk

But the question stands - were any of you able to get the Surefire switch through the slot? I'm on the PowerTac web site looking at their kits too and it seems they've changed their lined up since this thread began. While I wait for Kriss' response, I'm tempted to get one of those lights and switches, but I do really love the Surefire so I guess I'm just upset by this whole episode. An evening wasted. Let me know if you have any advice...

Having just installed the powertac light and switch yesterday I can tell you that the switch going through the slots is not easy. From what I've read here the powertac switch is actually thicker than the surefire, BUT it looks like the one in your video is different(plastic cover?) than the original pressure switch. Anyone else with a surefire switch know if that's true?

superflytnt wrote:Guys, I went ahead and bought the Surefire kit. I really like the light, I already have one next to my bed and use it to find stuff after the wife's gone to sleep all the time. I followed the directions installing the light and switch perfectly but I must be missing something. First, the rear of the switch (as it attaches to the actual cord) is too thick for the slot you're supposed to thread it through, and (b) the switch itself doesn't bend to allow you to actually get it past the corner of the switch. In other words, you can press all you want on the switch from inside the upper receiver to force it through the slot, but two things will happen. First, the gun sheers rubber off the Surefire tape switch, and second, you can only get the corner of the switch through anyway. The space inside the upper receiver isn't wide enough to allow the switch to swing as horizontal as it needs to go to navigate the switch through the hole. Or the switch needs to be flexible (which it is not). I've basically ruined the switch (well, technically the gun did that) and my fingers are bleeding from the process. I've made a YouTube video of the incident but I'm not making the video public just yet because I want Kriss and this forum to view it first and make some recommendations. Here's the URL and you can see it at least:

http://1.seth.org/RJaPVk

But the question stands - were any of you able to get the Surefire switch through the slot? I'm on the PowerTac web site looking at their kits too and it seems they've changed their lined up since this thread began. While I wait for Kriss' response, I'm tempted to get one of those lights and switches, but I do really love the Surefire so I guess I'm just upset by this whole episode. An evening wasted. Let me know if you have any advice...

You need the early ST07 tape switch. You have the newer UE07 switch. There's a lot of set he's listed with the same part number. My suggestion if you can't get the early type switch is to search online or EBay. That way you can see the exact switch you're getting. That how I got my Surefire light I wanted for my AR.

GTIguy315 wrote:Having just installed the powertac light and switch yesterday I can tell you that the switch going through the slots is not easy. From what I've read here the powertac switch is actually thicker than the surefire, BUT it looks like the one in your video is different(plastic cover?) than the original pressure switch. Anyone else with a surefire switch know if that's true?

I really didn't have a hard time getting the PowerTac pressure switch to slide through the frame opening. I slid it in at a angle while compressing it. I would make sure the frame doesn't have any flashing in the opening when sliding the switch through. If so, file the excess flashing away, but don't cut into the frame more than the molded opening, unless your want to do that, but for me, that was not needed at all.

it was harder to get the pressure switch out after i put velcro on it but it still went thru the slot.

on a side note, my light broke, not from firing, i twisted it to strobe then back to light and when i did the light was really dim, took it out of kriss, messed with it, took the remote switch off and put button back on, still dim, let it sit awhile, picked it up and moved from dim to strobe and back and it was bright again, sent email for warranty, guess you do get what you pay for

You know it has like 3-4 dimness settings right?

GTIguy315 wrote:You know it has like 3-4 dimness settings right?

^^^ This. Did you change the lighting settings? Make sure that's not what you did.