How do you clean your Vector?

I admit, im lazy. I wait to the last minute to clean my vector. I run a bore snake (for 45 acp) thru the barrel. Then I proceed to wipe off dirt from the raceway and slider. I clean off dirt and residue from where ever i can reach. Then i use a toothbrush to clean the hard to reach nooks and crannies. I then lube with Weaponshield in the raceways, boltcatch, mag release, bolt and extractor.

I start off by soaking the barrel with cleaning solution then following it up with a nylon brush and cleaning rod. After about 7 passes, I grab a soaked cleaning patch and start dabbing my way through the rest of the firearm.

After ensuring most internal parts are soaked with the solution, I follow it up with brushes, Q-Tips, toothpicks w/small patches and scrub away. Then, I start running dry patches through the barrel.

I use a blow dryer to push the excess liquids into or out of the nooks and crannies then wipe everything else down and reassmble. I usually use a CLP type product like Ballistol but now I recently picked up froglube been using it since.

Im pretty much the same as Verci.

A competition pistol shooter, in my club, was telling me to use Mobil 1 motor oil for cold winter shooting. I havent tried it. But I suppose if it is good for a performacne sports car, why not my KRISS?

Sorry to revive this, I don't have my KV SBR yet, but being new to polymer guns, I need to ask.
I use MPro7 on my AR's and all alloy guns for cleaning, plus a bore snake.
Being lazy, I haven't check the instructions to see, if MPro7 is safe for polymers.
What do you guys use?
Also, I run my AR's wet (lubrication wise), how about the KV?

MPro7 is what the give you in the crappy cleaning kit that comes with it i believe.

I run mine wet as well as another member here.

I clean the barrel like everyone else, but use a Winchester spray cleaner on the rest of the CRB moving parts, let it set for about 30 minutes and blow it all of with dry air(gets all the nooks and hidden places) but will leave a very light coating to inhibit any type of corrosion. Then I will blow about 100 psi through the firing pin and wipe everything down with a white rag and check to see if all is good. Before I reassemble, will take the bolt and slide mechanisms and put a light coat of Milcomm TW25 lubricant on all moving heavy parts and put a few drops of quality gun oil on FCG springs and things. Milcomm was recommended by SIG for my SIG heavy moving parts and slides. Also use it on the bolt and carrier assemblies of my GPS AR's. Seems to work well.

Right now I have switched to a gun cleaner lubricant spray that I picked up from Walmart. Then I wipe it down with paper towels and toothbrush. I lube it up with Mobil 1 synthetic.

Vulpini (fox) urine exhibits properties ideal for the cleaning, lubrication, and preservation of carbon steel and stainless alloys. There is supporting literature, and SOF advance teams are pioneering this method in the field. Vulpini, plus toothbrush (preferably not the same used for oral hygiene!) are all you need. I've found a number of online vendors that can supply, but maintaining your own captive fox ensures freshness. Never heard of an expiration date on Vulpini, but why take chances.

I use FrogLube CLP. It's smells like wax vampire fangs you got as a kid on Halloween. It's safe for all surfaces and water proof. Doesn't stain clothes and a little goes a long way. So far it's edged out all the major cleaners and lubes that are commercially available in a mainstream sporting goods store.
It's slick and slime like after it dries. However it's very spreadable as you apply. I've been told you can safely eat it if you were inclined to do so.